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SRC BMW 2.8 CHRONO Beyond Rallyslot Kit Build by Ray Lego

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Slot Racing Company has unveiled today through its social networks the first image of its next BMW 2.8 CS at 1:32 scale. This is the car with which Rauno Aaltonen and John Davenport entered the 1972 Olimpia Rally, an old-style rally that began in Kiel, in northern Germany, and ended in Munich, next to the Austrian border.
The first version available will be with the Chrono Beyond configuration in kit form. We will be attentive to the details and final marketing dates of this new SRC model.

The brand new SRC Olympia Rallye 1972 BMW 2.8 CS is now available as a kit.
It is the works car of Rauno Aaltonen and John Davenport, who had to retire on the 32nd of a total of 67 special stages with a defective head gasket.
The 3,500-kilometer event took place from 13 to 19 August 1972. It started in Kiel, a city in the north of Germany, and finished in the south, in Munich, a week before the Olympic Games.

The 17000 rpm SRC M3 motor is positioned as an inliner in a separately sprung pod.
The spring-loaded guide is positioned as far forward as possible in front of the car, which makes it very stable.
The front axle can be adjusted with four grub screws; two on each side at the bottom of the front axle and two at the top.

Thanks to the Lexan interior, the weight remains just under 80 grams.

Chassis assembled/complete UPGRADE:
• M3/N engine
• 9z In-line pinion. 1 x Crown 3/32″ 27z In Line Bronze for 2,38mm axle + ( 1 x screw 2’5 x 2’5 )
• 2 x Motor screw T2 (RM1004)
• Motor mount RM1608 + 2 x screw RM1018 + 2 x spring RM0807 + 2 x screw RM1002 + 2 x spacer RM1405
• 2 x Block C part (RM1607)
• T4 guide (RM0712). 1 x spring guide T2. 1 x Screw 1,8 x 6 + spacer RM1405
• 2 x Cable (Black – silicone pro.). 2 x Terminal cable. 2 x Braid 22mm STD
• 2 x Brass bearing RM0504 antifriction bearing for rear suspension
• 2 x Axle 50mm Steel B.
• 4 x Spring clips (for adjusting front axle) 2,5 x 0,45 x 3 (RM1001)
• 2 x Supremex screw 2,1 x 8mm (RM1015) for body
• 2 x Tyre RN0115 rear. 2 x tyre RN0201 front
• 4 x Complete wheel rims (RM0627) + Alpina Hubcap
*Extra: 1 x soft chassis + 4 x screws (RM1001)

• 1 x CHRONO Rally version body
• 1 x Lightweight TC cockpit
• 2 x Head. 2 x Open helmet. 2 x Intercoms
• 1 x Windscreen glass. 1 + 1 x front grille optics + rear grille optics.
• 2 x front indicators + 2 x rear indicators (radiator grille)
• Front grille + bumper (painted/black) + rear grille (chromed)
• 2 x front windscreen wipers
• Chrome body parts: 4 + 2 x BMW logo, bumper, 2 x grilles, 4 x mirrows
• 2 x steel exhaust tailpipe + pipe support + 2 x pipes
• Front number plate photoetched
• 1 x BMW/SRC/CHRONO decal panel
• 1 x SRC box (RC1051)

I always get excited when I see a DHL box from Spain because I know its another SRC banger!
This BMW 2.8 Kit was no exception.

Let’s do it!

The white body is crisp and smooth and only needed some light scuffing and some gentle scribing with the back of a exacto knife.
I do this to any detail that I think might get lost with a few coats of primer/paint and clear. The its washed in a soap that is free from animal products
and any other chemicals that might react to the paint. So it’s Vegan? LOL. Then i let it dry overnight and set up for primer, i use Mr Surfacer 1000 grey primer
because that’s what I had! A fine mist makes it easy to smooth, even covaged. I like the grey because it makes the white paint “not so stark” and has a vintage feel.
After a few coats I do a light wet sand with 2500-5000 sandpaper and just knock off any imperfections. Sometimes I just use a paper towel instead of sandpaper.
Let dry for a day and then do the same but with Tamiya Racing White TS-7. One light coat the second a little thicker and the final flood so smooth. Dont over do it or it will drip
and then your F$#@!! The last takes a while to master so practice on old kits.

A few tips on Paint with rattle can:
If you need to use spray paint in colder weather, let the paint sit in some hot tap water for a bit before using. It will heat up the paint and you’ll have good pressure in the can again. Lowers the viscosity of the paint allowing it to FLOW better. Delivers a finer spray and smoother finish.
The spray grip handle also helps with can control. Use long strokes and practice practice practice.

Let dry for a few day.

Once paint is dry, prep your workstation for decals.
Micro Sol
Micro set
warm soapy water
exacto knife
paper towels

Micro Set slightly softens the decal film to make it more flexible so that it will conform better to the model’s surface. Better adhesion of the decal to the model prevents tiny air bubbles from forming and results in an invisible carrier film for the so-called ‘painted on look.’

Mirco Sol setting solution is for the most difficult irregular surfaces to be found on models. It completely softens the Microscale Decal, allowing it to drape down onto the surface of the model, conforming perfectly to surface irregularities without distortion.

Cut the decal out from the sheet with a hobby knife and, gripping with a pair of reverse action tweezers, dip it into water for a few seconds and set aside. The exact length of time the decal needs to be submerged in water depends on various factors, including the age of the sheet. 10 seconds is normally enough, but if it doesn’t slide off easily just put it back in for a few more seconds.
While the decal is soaking and lifting from it’s backing, brush some Microset on to the area where the decal will be applied.
Slide the decal off it’s backing on to the model and position using a paintbrush. Brush some more Microset over the top, and then leave for a few moments to soften.
Using a moistened (but not wet!) cotton bud (Q-Tip), very gently press the decal down on to the the surface, removing the excess fluid and flattening / smoothing the decal as you go. Tamiya cotton buds are good for this because they are very tightly wound, and there is less chance that cotton fibres will come off and stick to the decal.
If there are stubborn creases or air bubbles that won’t flatten, carefully prick them with a pin or the point of your hobby knife and apply Microsol to the decal. You can repeat this as many times as required until the decal is completely flat, allowing it to dry fully between each coat.
When you’re happy that the decal is completely flat, apply another coat of gloss/matte varnish to seal it. At this point the film border should be completely invisible.

Carefully and lightly sanding the edges of the decal in between coats gives an even better end result, if this is still necessary after all tips mentioned above. Use a very fine sandpaper for sanding and always sand wet so that the chance of sanding through is as small as possible. Sandpaper with a grain of 1000 and higher is preferred, with careful use down to 600 grit is still possible. Everything more coarse than this is an absolute no-go. This means that the chances of sanding through the decal or coating layer are far too great. The coarse sandpapers also leave too large scratches which are not easily covered by a new layer of coat.

Weathering/Race Version:
I love making the car look like it’s being in a race or rally with road grime +dirt and mud!
Wanted to make this car different and since it was a “rally” car I wanted a “raced look”, so I used Vallejo acrylic paint.
and greys and heavily blot sections of the car that I know will look like it’s been in a 24 hour rally. When it drys i take rubbing alcohol and
wash down the body with a qtip or paint brush, this gives the whole body a dirty patina and a great place to start.
Washes can also be used to simulate fuels, oil, and grease stains, as well as rust. DRY BRUSH, pick up just a bit of paint on the tip of the brush and then wipe almost all of it off on a paper towel or cloth. Then lightly apply the brush to the desired area on your model, moving the brush quickly back and forth. You are not looking for a great glob of paint, but rather a subtle gradient. You can repeat the process using gradually lighter shades until you get the effect you want. I also like to use a toothbrush and dip into waterdown paint and then flung onto the body giving the effect of splattered mud.

Dry-brushing is a technique that requires practice to get right. Though it can be a quick way to highlight details, if overused, you run the risk of your model looking like it’s painted with cake frosting.
I also like using brush on varnish like gloss and matte to highlight areas.

The Chassis:
After painting all the misc parts we move on to the chassis, it come 90% assembled
and is a work of art. I first true the front tires with aTIRE RAZOR and then set the front axle ride height so the front tires
are just touching the track/set up block. I tight the front 2 pod screws snug and loosen the rear ons a 1/2 turn. This gives a little float
but not too much, for a loose car i like to tighten the pod. The rear gear cluster was perfect and just added some grease from Sloting Plus
and ran the car for 1 hour at 4 volts.
NO weight added!
Quickslick to rear tires for “plastic” racing.

This chassis is super lightweight and ultra stiff. Lightweight interior with the best “heads” in the slot car industry! NO beady little eyes painted on!
The “POD” system has a rear suspension that works wonders and gives the car some up and down movement to help with tracks that are not smooth. The C-block supports
are so clever they act like suspension and also keep the rear bushings in place! Come in a fruit loop of colors! The M3/N engine is smooth and powerful and is even painted
a beautiful silver flake! The spring guid is tuff and keeps the braid glued to the rails! The wheels are lightweight and a “Alpina” inserts makes them look like the real thing,
I could go on forever just look at the Parts list! Decals and presentation box! Ect ect! Even comes with an extra “soft” chassis!

Track Test:
Time to marry the chassis with the boy using 2 “SUPREMEX” screws and off to the track.
My first test was on Jon Wang’s “Slytherin Speedway” , a 120 Ft Carrera plastic track with elevation changes and long straights.
The car was quick and with such a narrow stance handled great! Tons of breaking and NO chatter with stock rubber tires. It handled
the “corkscrew” and “step up” like a true Rally car and I could push very hard. My only fault was it was going so fast its hard to see all my beautil work!

DON’T Sleep! Get this car! It’s beautiful!


1. It is recommended to thread a tap of the diameter corresponding to the holes of the following parts: 1.1 For the Offset bedplate, Offset