Slot Racing Company has today unveiled the first image of its upcoming 1:32 scale BMW 2.8 CS via its social media channels. This is the car with which Rauno Aaltonen and John Davenport participated in the 1972 Olympia Rally, an old-fashioned rally that started in Kiel, in northern Germany, and finished in Munich, near the Austrian border. The first version available will be with the Chrono Beyond configuration in kit form. We will be keeping an eye on the details and final marketing dates for this new SRC model.
The new SRC Olympia Rallye 1972 BMW 2.8 CS is now available as a kit. It was the official car of Rauno Aaltonen and John Davenport, which had to retire on stage 32 of 67 due to a faulty head gasket. The 3,500-kilometer rally took place from August 13th to 19th, 1972. It started in Kiel, a city in northern Germany, and finished in Munich in the south, a week before the Olympic Games.
The SRC engine M3 x 17,000 rpm inline position with independent suspension. The suspension guide is positioned as far forward as possible in the car, making it very stable. The front axle can be adjusted with four set screws; two on each side at the bottom of the front axle and two at the top.
Thanks to the Lexan interior, the weight remains just below 80 grams.
Fully assembled chassis UPGRADE:
- 1 x Rally version CHRONO body shell
- 1 x Lightweight TC Cabin
- 2 x Headgear. 2 x Open-face helmets. 2 x Intercoms
- 1 x Windshield glass. 1 + 1 front grille headlights + rear grille headlights
- 2 x Front turn signals + 2 x Rear turn signals (grille)
- Front grille + bumper (painted/black) + rear grille (chromed)
- 2 x Front Windscreen Wipers
- Chrome body parts: 4 + 2 BMW logos, bumper, 2 x hood grilles, 2 x side mirrors + 2 x rearview mirrors
- 2 x Steel exhaust tailpipes + pipe support + 2 x pipes
- Front license plate photo-etched
- 1 x BMW/SRC/CHRONO Panel
- 1 x Caja SRC (RC1051)
I always get excited when I see a DHL box from Spain because I know it's another SRC bombshell! This BMW 2.8 Kit was no exception.
Let's do it!
The white bodywork is crisp and smooth and only needed a light sanding and a gentle scraping with the back of a utility knife. I do this with any detail I think might be lost with a few coats of primer/paint and clear coat. It washes off with a soap that doesn't contain animal products or any other chemicals that could react with the paint. So it's vegan? LOL. Then I let it dry overnight and prepare it for priming. I use Mr Surfacer 1000 gray primer because that's what I had on hand! A fine spray makes it easy to smooth out, even to cover. I like the gray because it makes the white paint "not so harsh" and has a vintage feel. After a few coats, I do a light wet sanding with 2500-5000 grit sandpaper and remove any imperfections. Sometimes I just use a paper towel instead of sandpaper. Let it dry for a day and then do the same but with Tamiya Racing White TS-7. A light coat, a slightly thicker second coat, and a final, gentle flood. Don't overdo it or it will run! This last step takes some practice to master, so use old kits first.
Some painting tips: If you need to use spray paint in colder weather, let the paint sit in some warm tap water for a while before using it. This will warm the paint and restore good pressure. It also reduces the paint's viscosity, allowing it to flow better. This results in a finer spray and a smoother finish. The sprayer's grip handle also helps with paint control. Use long strokes and practice, practice, practice.
Leave to dry for a few days.
Once the paint is dry, prepare your workstation for the decals:
- Micro Sol
- Micro Set
- Warm soapy water
- Brush
- Cutter
- Paper towels
- Cotton swabs (Q-tips)
Micro Set slightly softens the decal to make it more flexible and allow it to conform better to the model's surface. This improved adhesion prevents small air bubbles from forming and results in an invisible backing film for a "painted look."
Micro Sol is for the toughest irregular surfaces found on models. It completely smooths the decal to a microscale, allowing it to cover the model's surface, perfectly conforming to surface irregularities without distortion.
Cut the decal from the sheet with a craft knife and, holding it with a pair of reverse-action tweezers, dip it in water for a few seconds and set it aside. The exact time the decal needs to be submerged in water depends on several factors, including the age of the sheet. Usually, 10 seconds is enough, but if it doesn't slide off easily, put it back in for a few more seconds. While the decal is soaking and lifting from its backing, brush a little Microset onto the area where the decal will be applied. Slide the decal from its backing onto the model and position it with a brush. Brush a little more Microset over the top and then let it soften for a few moments. Using a moistened (but not wet!) cotton swab (Q-tip), very gently press the decal onto the surface, removing any excess liquid and flattening/smoothing the decal as you go. Tamiya cotton swabs are good for this because they are tightly wound, and there is less chance of cotton fibers coming loose and sticking to the decal. If there are any stubborn wrinkles or air bubbles that won't flatten, carefully prick them with a pin or the tip of your craft knife and apply Microsol to the decal. You can repeat this as many times as necessary until the decal is completely flat, allowing it to dry completely between each coat. When you are satisfied that the decal is completely flat, apply another coat of gloss/matte varnish to seal it. At this point, the edge of the film should be completely invisible.
Lightly and carefully sanding the edges of the decal between coats will give an even better final result, if still necessary after all the tips mentioned above. Use very fine sandpaper and always wet sandpaper to minimize the chance of sanding too much. Sandpaper with a grit of 1000 or higher is preferred; with careful use, even 600 grit is possible. Anything coarser than this is a complete disaster. This means the chances of sanding the decal or the topcoat are far too high. Coarse sandpaper also leaves excessively large scratches that cannot be easily covered with a new coat of paint.
Weathering/Race Version: I love making the car look like it's been in a race or rally with road grime, dirt, and mud! I wanted to make this car stand out, and since it was a "rally" car, I wanted a "race look," so I used Vallejo acrylic paint on gray and heavily splattered sections of the car that I know will look like it's been in a 24-hour rally. When it dries, I take rubbing alcohol and wash the bodywork with a Q-tip or a paintbrush. This gives the whole body a dirty patina and a great starting point. Washes can also be used to simulate fuel, oil, and grease stains, as well as rust. With a dry brush, pick up just a little paint on the tip of the brush and then wipe off almost all of it with a paper towel or cloth. Then gently apply the brush to the desired area of your model, moving the brush quickly back and forth. You're not aiming for a big drop of paint, but a subtle gradient. You can repeat the process using gradually lighter shades until you achieve the desired effect. I also like to use a toothbrush, dip it in diluted paint, and then flick it onto the body to create a mud splatter effect.
Dry brushing is a technique that requires practice to master. While it can be a quick way to highlight details, overdoing it risks making your model look like it's been painted with cake frosting. I also like to use brushes over varnish, both glossy and matte, to highlight areas.
The chassis: After painting all the parts, we move on to the chassis. It comes 90% assembled and is a work of art. First, I trimmed the front rims with a tire razor and then set the front axle ride height so the front rims just touched the track/setup bench. I tightened the two front bolts on the bench until snug and loosened the rear bolts half a turn. This gives it a little float, but not too much. For a looser car, I like to tighten the bench. The rear gear set was perfect, so I just added a little Sloting Plus grease and ran the car for an hour at 4 volts. NO added weight! I fitted Quickslicks to the rear "plastic" racing tires.
This chassis is super lightweight and ultra-rigid. Lightweight interior with the best "heads" in the slot car industry! NO painted eyes! The motor mount system has a rear suspension that works wonderfully and gives the car a little up-and-down movement to help with uneven tracks. The C-block mounts are so clever that they act as suspension and also keep the rear bushings in place! It comes in a variety of colors! The motor M3/N is smooth and powerful and is even painted in a beautiful silver color! The suspension guide is like an anchor and keeps the braid glued to the rails! The wheels are lightweight and the "Alpina" hubcaps make them look real. I could go on forever, just look at the parts list! Decals and presentation box! etc. etc.! It even comes with an extra "soft" chassis!
Track test: It's time to attach the chassis to the body using 2 "SUPREMEX" screws and head out onto the track. My first test was at Jon Wang's "Slytherin Speedway", a 120-foot plastic racing track with elevation changes and long straightaways. The car was fast and handled very well with such a narrow driving position! Tons of braking power and NO vibrations with the original rubber tires. He handled the "corkscrew" and the "step by step" like a real rally car and could push very hard. My only mistake was that I was going so fast that it's hard to see all my beautiful work!
Conclusion: Don't sleep on it! Get this car! It's beautiful!
